he narrow covered streets, with their unexpected dead ends, their twists and turns, their steps, deadlights, corbels and balconies suggest that the only thought in the minds of the people who laid out this town was defence against an enemy attack or pirate raid.

n fact, there is no plan behind the building of the town. Not that this is any bad thing, since in this way an involved complex has come into being which does not block the view of the sea or prevent it being heard or smelt. In the old town all roads lead to the sea, but they also lead us to the gates of the castle which Marco Sanudi built in 1207. We enter either by the south gate, the "Paraporti", or by the north gate, the "Trani Porta" (strong gate). The Trani Porta and the Portara are undoubtely the two most familiar landmarks of Naxos.

s we go through the gates of the Kastro we enter what is really another place and age, where tranquillity reigns- there are the narrow fragmented streets, the attractive courtyards with their flowers and the mansions- veritable palaces of the Venetian families, with their coat of arms over the door. Of the 12 castles of the Kastro only one remains- that of the Crispi, the palace of the last Dukes of Naxos. It is known as the castle of the Glezos family, from the name of its last owners, who gave it to the State for restoration as a Byzantine museum.

he narrow uphill streets bring us to the highest point of the Kastro, where we find the School of Commerce, now the Archaeological Museum, and next to it the Capella Casazza, the Ursuline School, the ruins of the castle which tradition maintains was that of Marco Sanudi, the Catholic Bishop's Residence and the Catholic Cathedral.

Photos and text taken from "Naxos - Today and yesterday" (Toubis Editions)

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