hile Chalkidiki is known mainly for its breathtaking coastlines, visitors who venture beyond the well-known beach resorts and into the mountains will discover villages and peoples, whose way of life has changed little over the centuries.
		Tending to their livestock, coaxing forth the fruits of the land, weaving rugs and, of course, celebrating religious days and observing local customs are still part and parcel of their everyday existence. If you're lucky, you might even chance upon a traditional village wedding or a pre-Lenten feast in the main square. Don't leave inland villages like Polygiros and Arnaia without stocking up on delicious homemade sweets and other locally-made goods. Wherever you choose to drive to, exploring the mountains of the area, with the surrounding wooded slopes, the rustle of leaves, the variety of colours and shapes is a unique chance for true enjoyment.

t the foot of Mount Holomondas lies Polygiros, the capital of Chalkidiki. Visitors can reach the town by bus from all major resort areas and the drive through the hills takes in some enchanting villages. The town itself stands at a height of 500 m and it is built in the manner of an amphitheatre with the houses spreading across the slopes of Prophetes Ilias hill, offering a breathtaking view of the three prongs of Chalikidiki.
		The fertile countryside, planted with vines, olive trees and fruit trees has been inhabited since prehistoric times. The interesting past of the town is revealed at the local museum which houses rare exhibits from the prehistoric and historical periods of the life of the peninsula. Among the most interesting exhibits is the "kouros", a partly-completed sixth century BC statue of a youth plucked from the sea. Along with gold jewellery from the third century, it houses various finds from the Akanthos excavation site (situated at present-day Ierissos) including terracotta figures and a sarcophagus featuring a lion, bull, panthers and greenery.
Take a look around the older areas of the town where houses are built in the traditional Macedonian style with an upper storey, supported by timber, jutting out over the lower ground floor usually built of stone.

A unique component of these houses is the "hayiati", a covered balcony on the south side of the structure, used to bring light and air into the home. Red-tiled roofs and tall chimneys are distinguishing features of this architectural style. In Polygiros, the natives kick up their heels with a series of feasts and festivities in the week before Lent. All are welcome to savour the local fare served up for free during the "katamania" celebration. Perk up your energy with a homemade sweet before attempting the climb up Profitis Elias hill and enjoy the spectacular view of the three peninsulas on a clear day.

part from Mount Athos, there are few other places in Chalkidiki, which hold more steadfastly to tradition than the inland village of Arnaia, located 70km from Thessaloniki. Arnaia was founded in the 16th century and many of its 3,500 citizens uphold the old customs and practices. Brightly-coloured hand-woven rugs depicting scenes of village life and sweaters are proudly displayed outside their stores while tasty delights like locally produced honey - to slather onto chunky village bread, spinach and cheese pies tempt the visitor. Pick up some "giaourtokarydomelo" - yoghurt laced with honey and walnuts.
Meander through the town's narrow, cobble stoned streets lined with the typical two-storey rustic homes built in the shape of a D, a style thought to have been brought to the area by settlers from Epirus. House proud residents tend to their daily chores and herds of goats passing through the town, bells tinkling, are a common sight. Indeed, the Society for the Development of Chalkidiki has put in an admirable effort to preserve the local handicrafts, folk art and environment while encouraging controlled tourism development.
Remains of an ancient city can be found on Profitis Elias hill, 3km north of the town.

Photos and text taken from "Chalkidiki & Mount Athos -   today and yesterday" (Toubis Editions)

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