ount Athos, known as the Holy Mountain, is home to a semi-autonomous, all-male monastic community. Mt Athos is the centre of the global Orthodox religion - an area of mystique, contemplation, and isolation. The Mt Athos monasteries operate in much with the same manner as they have for over 1,000 years.
The 1,500 inhabitants of the monasteries keep Byzantine time and they use the Julian calendar. Of the 20 monasteries, 17 are Greek and the other three are Russian, Bulgarian and Serbian. A maximum of 120 Greek Orthodox and 10 foreign visitors per day are allowed onto this sacred land - thought to have been visited by the Virgin Mary. However, a decree issued in the mid-11th century prohibits women from entering the world's sole monastic state.

isitors may tour Mt. Athos by using the ancient stone-paved paths which lead from one monastery to another. However they are advised to travel in group or with a guide , since the dense vegetation has overgrown many of the paths and the signposting is poor.
		Another traditional way to tour the mountain, is by riding a mule. Mules and horses can be hired at Karyes, and come with drivers who are well acquainted with the routes on the mountains. Apart from visiting the monasteries, another possibility open to visitors is the ascent of Mt Athos itself (2,033 meters), which has an incredible view. The climb begins at the Skete of St Anne. The port town of Ouranoupoli marks the point at which secular Mt Athos ends and the monastic republic begins.
From there, boats leave for the monasteries, most of which are isolated from one another.

uranoupoli, 147 km from Thessaloniki, was founded by refugees from Asia Minor and is Mt Athos' main port. It's the last town on secular Mt Athos before one reaches the monastic republic. It is home to around 780 people and known for its sandy beaches.
The Prosforia fortress, thought to have been built around 1344, is one of the most significant sights in the town. A stellar example of monastery architecture, it is the largest such structure in the prefecture and the best preserved. A small chapel dedicated to St Constantine and Helen is located beneath it. The 13th century Fragokastro castle is situated 3 km east of the village. Goat hair is used by the local womenfolk to make carpets featuring Byzantine designs and these are sold here, as are handicrafts fashioned by Mt Athos monks.
Boats leave daily for tours around Mt Athos, allowing views of the monasteries. Vessels also operate between the village and Chalkidiki's only inhabited island, that of Ammouliani.

he capital of Mt Athos, Karyes, lies approximately in the centre of Mt Athos, and that is why it used to be called 'Mesi' [that means 'the center'] during the past years. In the centre of the village stands the building in which the Holy Community, consisting of representatives of each of the 20 monasteries, meets. In front of this is the church of the Protaton, the Cathedral of Karyes, which is dedicated to the Dormition of the Virgin.
		The church of the Protaton, that according to tradition was built by the Emperor Constantine the Great, has superb wall-paintings of the Macedonian (14th century) and Cretan (16th century) schools. In its sanctuary there is the miraculous icon known as Axion Esti. The library of Karyes , housed in an old tower, has numerous manuscript codices and some thousands of printed books.
In Karyes are the nineteen konakia in which the representatives of the monasteries stay when they come to the capital. Only Koutloumousiou does not have a konaki, because it is so close to Karyes as not to need one. In and around Karyes are kellia attached to various monasteries.

Photos and text taken from "Chalkidiki & Mount Athos -   today and yesterday" (Toubis Editions)

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